How to repair your damaged skin barrier, according to a dermatologist

If you’ve ever graced the likes of TikTok and Instagram reels, you’ll know the skin barrier is a subject of much discussion. Be it #skinfluencers or cosmetics brands, products designed to help repair a damaged skin barrier are the latest trend – for example, The Inkey List has recently launched its ectoin hydro-barrier serum (£15, Boots.com), which aims to hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier.

The question is: what is the skin barrier? And why is everyone’s – it would seem – in need of some damage repair? We wanted to get to the crux of the matter and find some clear-cut answers among all the speculation and paid advertising.

Thankfully, dermatologist Dr Hassan Galadari came to the rescue, with both simple solutions and a scientific breakdown of terms – so you can crack on with your cleansing and moisturising, confident in the knowledge you’re doing what’s best for your skin.

Scroll on for all of Dr Galadari’s tips, tricks and kernels of wisdom.

Meet the expert

Dr Hassan Galadari is a consultant dermatologist and secretary general of The International Society of Dermatology. He has been working in the field of dermatology – as a medical doctor, university professor and committee member – for more than 15 years and now is co-founder of his own skin clinic: the Galadari Derma Clinic in Dubai.

What is the skin barrier?

“Your skin barrier is your body’s frontline defence,” Dr Galadari tells The Independent. “It’s the outermost layer of your skin and keeps moisture in, and harmful stuff – like bacteria and pollution – out.”

Getting technical, he describes how the skin barrier is made up of lipids (oils), dead skin cells, and a mix of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. “When the skin barrier is healthy,” he says, “your skin stays hydrated, smooth, and strong. When it’s compromised, you’ll notice issues like dryness, redness or irritation creeping in.”

How can you repair a damaged skin barrier?

“Fixing a damaged skin barrier is all about hydration and soothing care,” claims Dr Galadari. He recommends those suffering with a damaged skin barrier to look for products with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide. “These ingredients,” he clarifies, “are brilliant for restoring moisture and repairing your skin’s protective layer.”

Dr Galadari also advises to “steer clear of harsh products like strong exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs) or retinoids, as they can make things worse”. Instead, he suggests we should stick to more sensitive-skin-friendly products, such as non-stripping cleansers, thick, barrier-repairing moisturisers and, of course, don’t forget the SPF. “Sun exposure can slow down your skin’s recovery and make the damage worse.” adds Galadari.

Read more: This is how much SPF you should be using, even in winter